Surface Rust: This one’s self explanatory. Structurally, surface rust isn’t a big deal. Still, it’s best to correct surface rust as soon as you see it, just in case. Start with an abrasive wheel or sandpaper (around 50-grit) to cut through the paint and corrosion until clean, bright metal is visible. Scuff up the surrounding areas, too, so that your body treatments can adhere well to the car.
Scale Rust: When you don’t correct surface rust and instead allow that corrosion to penetrate the metal, you may see bubbles start to form in your car’s paint. When rust penetrates the surface like this, it forms a rough, pitted type of damage called SCALE. Fixing scale means cutting through the rust with a wire brush, knocking down roughness with a grinding wheel and smoothing the surface with sandpaper. Be sure you’re down to the bare metal and that no big flakes of rust are left before sealing it up, otherwise your sealer or filler could pop right back off. Scuff the area around the bare metal so your sealants and treatments will stick to it. You may want to consider smoothing it out with a body filler such as 5 STAR Xtreme® Lightweight or Premium Gold Body filler if it’s in a more visible spot, before finishing it out with primer and paint.
Penetrating Rust: This is the serious stuff. As scale rust gets worse, holes form when the steel is converted to brittle iron oxide. Your options are to completely replace the affected part or panel, or if it’s only a bodywork issue, you can cut out the rotted parts and weld on patch panels to repair it. Just don’t repair these larger holes with body filler. Also, don’t attempt to patch repair a car’s rusted frame.
✅ Stop Rust from Forming: We like Zero Rust because it starves the metal surface of oxygen, stopping the whole process that converts steel to rust in the first place.
- Perfect for RVs, Industrial Supply, Janitorial Supply, Building Supply, Boat Dealers, Heavy Equipment Dealers, Farm Implement Dealers, & Roofing Supply.
- Zero Rust Topcoat Aerosols Perfect for small jobs or hard to reach areas.
• Single component
• NO pot-life issues or waste material in the bucket
• Topcoat with virtually any coating technology (Urethane, Epoxy, Enamel)
• Lids do NOT become welded to cans like other leading brands.
• Sticks to new (no surface prep) and rusty steel better than other leading brands.
• Lasts 2000+ hours (in salt spray chamber) over other brands at 504 hours!
See your local jobber for pricing.